Bologna 🍝
The Learned, the Fat, the Red — Europe's oldest university and Italy's most famous cuisine, under forty kilometers of porticoes.
Bologna has three nicknames and deserves all three: "the Learned" for the Alma Mater Studiorum, the oldest university in the Western world, founded in 1088; "the Fat" for a cuisine that gave Italy tortellini, tagliatelle al ragù, and mortadella; "the Red" for the color of its rooftops and porticoes, as well as a long left-wing political history.
It's a city you live rather than visit: the historic center is among the best-preserved in Italy, with over forty kilometers of porticoes connecting every corner without ever getting wet. Le Due Torri soar above the rooftops, Piazza Maggiore is the city's living room, and the university fills the streets with students from all over the world, giving Bologna an energy that other Italian art cities lack.
And then there's the food, which here isn't a detail but the very reason for the trip: the covered market of the Quadrilatero, the osterie where you eat hand-made tortellini right before your eyes, the platter of cured meats that alone is worth the trip. Bologna is visited with an appetite, not just with a guidebook in hand.
Do not miss
Worth it even on a short visit.
Le Due Torri
The city's symbol — the Torre degli Asinelli can be climbed, almost a hundred meters above the red rooftops.
Basilica di San Petronio
One of the largest churches in the Christian world, with a facade deliberately left unfinished.
Piazza Maggiore
The heart of the city, surrounded by medieval palaces and always full of life, day and night.
Quadrilatero
The historic covered market among medieval shops — cured meats, cheeses, and fresh pasta at every corner.
Portico di San Luca
The longest covered portico in the world, almost four kilometers up to the sanctuary on the hill.
University of Bologna
The oldest university in the Western world, with the Archiginnasio and its Anatomical Theatre to visit.
A perfect day in Bologna
Towers and squares in the morning, market at lunch, San Luca at sunset.
- 🗼 09:00
Le Due Torri
Climb the Torre degli Asinelli as soon as it opens — four hundred ninety-eight steps, but the view over the red rooftops makes it all worthwhile.
- ⛪ 10:30
Piazza Maggiore and San Petronio
The heart of the city, with the basilica and Palazzo d'Accursio a stone's throw from the towers.
- 🧀 12:00
Quadrilatero Market
Get lost among the medieval shops of cured meats and cheeses — it's also the right place for a standing snack.
- 🍝 13:30
Lunch with tagliatelle al ragù
A real osteria, not a tourist restaurant — the differences show in the hand-written menu.
- ⛰️ 16:00
Portico di San Luca
Walk or take the minibus up to the sanctuary on the hill — almost four kilometers of covered portico.
- 🍷 19:30
Aperitivo in the university district
The Via Zamboni area, among students and murals, to end the day with a glass of Lambrusco.
The historic center
Towers, squares, and the unfinished basilica.
Bologna's medieval heart can easily be explored on foot in a morning, always sheltered under the porticoes.
- 🗼
Le Due Torri
Don't missThe Torre degli Asinelli, almost a hundred meters tall, can be climbed for a panoramic view of the city. The leaning Torre Garisenda is not visitable but is equally iconic.
Tip: The climb is almost five hundred narrow steps — not for everyone, but the view from the top is worth the effort.Open in Google Maps - 🏛️
Piazza Maggiore
The main square, surrounded by Palazzo d'Accursio, Palazzo del Podestà, and the Basilica di San Petronio — the meeting point for the whole city.
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Basilica di San Petronio
One of the largest brick churches in the world, with a facade left halfway between marble and raw brick due to lack of funds in the 1500s.
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Archiginnasio
HistoricThe first unified seat of the University of Bologna, with the 17th-century wooden Anatomical Theatre — the walls are covered with coats of arms of students from centuries past.
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Quadrilatero
MarketThe network of medieval streets behind Piazza Maggiore, now full of shops selling cured meats, cheeses, and fresh pasta made in view.
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San Luca and the hills
The longest portico in the world and the view over the city.
- ⛰️
Portico di San Luca
UniqueAlmost four kilometers of covered portico, with six hundred sixty-six arches, climbing from the center to the Sanctuary of the Madonna di San Luca on the hill.
Tip: You can walk the whole way (about an hour) or take the tourist minibus that leaves from Porta Saragozza.Open in Google Maps - ⛪
Sanctuary of the Madonna di San Luca
At the top of the hill, with a view that on clear days reaches the Apennines — and a bike descent much loved by local sports enthusiasts.
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Giardini Margherita
The large 19th-century public park, the Bolognese's place for running, reading, or having a picnic on Sundays.
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The university district
Via Zamboni, murals, and student life.
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Via Zamboni
NightlifeThe university street, among historic faculties, murals, and venues open late — the heart of student Bologna.
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Pinacoteca Nazionale
The most important Emilian art collection, with works by Raphael, Titian, and Guido Reni, inside the Academy of Fine Arts building.
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MAMbo
Contemporary artThe Museum of Modern Art of Bologna, in a converted former bread factory — international temporary exhibitions.
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Where to eat
Italy's gastronomic capital.
Bologna gave its name to a sauce that in the rest of the world is called "bolognese" but here is called only ragù, and it's eaten with tagliatelle, never with spaghetti.
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Tagliatelle al ragù
SpecialtyThe city's signature dish — fresh egg pasta with a meat ragù cooked for hours. Beware of those who call it "spaghetti alla bolognese": it doesn't exist here.
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Tortellini in brodo
TraditionSmall parcels of pasta stuffed with meat, served in capon broth — the holiday dish, available year-round in every real trattoria.
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Mortadella
Italy's most famous cured meat, born right here — to be tasted sliced thin at the Quadrilatero market, not the packaged kind.
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Historic osterie
Establishments with decades or centuries of history, where you eat at the same wooden table for generations — look for them away from the most touristy streets of the center.
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Day trips
Modena, Parma, and the Emilian food valley.
- 🏎️
Modena
Balsamic vinegar ~40 kmHomeland of traditional balsamic vinegar and the UNESCO Romanesque cathedral — half an hour by train, with visits to historic vinegar attics.
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Parma
Parmesan and prosciutto ~100 kmCradle of Parmigiano Reggiano and Prosciutto di Parma, with an elegant historic center and the Teatro Farnese.
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Ferrara
UNESCO ~45 kmPerfectly preserved Renaissance city, ideal for exploring by bicycle — less than half an hour by train.
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Good to know
Useful details for organizing your visit.
- 🎫
Torre degli Asinelli: book online
Since 2021, the climb has been limited entry with hourly booking — check availability before you arrive, especially on weekends.
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Porticoes everywhere
Over forty kilometers of covered porticoes in the center: you can get around almost the whole city even in the rain without needing an umbrella.
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Distinguish osteria from tourist restaurant
In the most central streets, tourist spots with photographed menus abound — the real osterie are often just a few steps away, without flashy signs.
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Stays in Bologna
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Frequently asked questions
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"Bologna doesn't have Italy's most photographed monuments, but it's the city that Italian travelers quietly recommend as their favorite — and after a plate of tortellini, you immediately understand why."